La india es el cauce de un río que despierta los sentidos

«…Cuando Bagú canta, la luz inunda los gestos y los rostros de sus hermanos, cuando nosotros tomamos la palabra y nos hacemos dueños del discurso, la noche ha caído sobre la India. Mostramos la luz en la noche. Los ritmos se hermanan, se hacen uno.»

Nomadak Tx es un viaje de encuentros con otros y con nosotros mismos a través de la txalaparta. El viaje es un camino y la India es el cauce de un río que despierta los sentidos.

En Bombay descubrimos un lugar mágico, el lavadero. El sol golpea con fuerza y roba la fuerza de los hombres que trabajan aquí. Entre la ropa y el agua, el golpe, el sonido de la ropa golpeada. Sonido mojado, múltiple, ahuecado, plano a veces.

Llegamos en tren al corazón del estado indio del Gujerat. Aquí descubrimos un frontón que construyó un misionero navarro. Es una zona rural muy apartada, donde viven los adivasis, un pueblo maldito, marginado y excluido. Son los descastados y jugamos con ellos un partido de pelota. Nos dan una lección, de pelota y de vida. La sonrisa del pobre, del extremadamente pobre nos convierte en pobres, nos habla de renuncia.

Junto a ellos descubrimos la sonoridad de las maderas sagradas de la India.

Ahmedabad es una gran ciudad, caótica y abarrotada de gente. De noche y de día, porque nunca descansa. El paseo nocturno en taxi nos muestra gente durmiendo en la calle, gente buscando, caminando, transportando cosas, mirando.

En Ahmedabad se encuentran el estudio de grabación y el teatro. Conseguimos, con mucha dificultad, aunar los ritmos que nosotros llevábamos en nuestra txalaparta con los que encontramos a lo largo de este cauce milenario que es la cultura India. El estudio es un espacio blanco y austero. El teatro es amplio y colorido, situado al borde del cauce de un inmenso río.

Los adivasi

Los adivasis pueblan los lugares más aislados de la India. El sistema de castas les mantiene apartados de la salud, la educación y la propiedad de las tierras que cultivan.

Representan aproximadamente el 8% de la población India.

La rica tradición cultural de los adivasis está repleta de mitos y leyendas que se han ido transmitiendo de una generación a otra mediante la comunicación oral. Los adivasis no veneran divinidades sobrenaturales sino que su fe se profesa sobre las personas, tanto vivas como muertas.

Aunque poco a poco van accediendo a la educación y a otros aspectos del mundo desarrollado, hoy por hoy, la supervivencia de los adivasis y su estilo de vida están seriamente amenazados.


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